France: along the coast of the Charente-Maritime
There are two versions of this story: the coast as experienced by sea kayak, as an outdoor kayaking trip. And a more standard travel story, a tour by car with local walks and visits.
Here a short recapitulation of the sea kayaking story. A tidal river sucks us towards the coast: the Sèvre Niortaise. There the mood changes completely as we start sea kayaking along the coast, commanded by the rythm of the tides. Far horizons, mud flats, waves, seagoing vessels and even a storm. Highlights are the many carrelets, fishing huts on stilts, with their nets waving in the wind when they are not catching fish. An island is served as dessert: the whitewashed houses, hollyhocks and sheltered bays of Aix.
Kayaking in Old Harbour of La Rochelle.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30068] Kayaking in the Old Harbour (Vieux Port) of La Rochelle can be a magical experience, especially during the early morning. The mouth to the harbour is guarded by two medieval fortified towers, both built in the 14th century. On the left we see the Tour St.-Nicolas, which served as a prison for many centuries. On the other side stands the Tour de la Chaîne (Tower of the Chain) which could be connected with a chain to the Tour St.-Nicolas, thus closing the entrance to the harbour. Photo Mick Palarczyk and Paul Smit.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30051] Shrimp fisher near Esnandes, on the Atlantic coast south of the mouth of the Sèvre Niortaise. Photo Mick Palarczyk.
Kayaker at northern shore of Ile d’Aix.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30114] The northern shore of the Ile d’Aix is a great spot to investigate by sea kayak. It has retained much of its natural beauty, with small beaches and rocky wooded headlands protruding into the Atlantic Ocean. This view was taken just north of the Fort Liédot. Photo Mick Palarczyk and Paul Smit.
Kayaker at river mouth of Sèvre Niortaise.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30050] West of Marans the Sèvre Niortaise is influenced by the tides and paddling downstream is best done during the outgoing tide. During ebb the banks of the river turn into muddy slopes, as here, near the little port of Corps de Garde. The salt meadows bordering the river are a great place for a pause, though. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30053] Shrimp fisher near Esnandes, on the Atlantic coast south of the mouth of the Sèvre Niortaise. Photo Mick Palarczyk.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30054] Shrimp fisher near Esnandes, on the Atlantic coast south of the mouth of the Sèvre Niortaise. Photo Mick Palarczyk.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30057] A fishing huts straddles the Atlantic coast near the village of Marsilly, north of La Rochelle. These huts are named 'carrelets' in French and are quite popular along the coast of the Charente-Maritime. During high tide a rectangular net is lowered vertically into the sea from the stilted hut. After remaining a few minutes submerged the net is quickly lifted by means of a winch thus trapping the fish between it and the surface. During a sea kayaking trip along the coast they form an interesting attraction. Photo Paul Smit.
Kayaker at a "carrelet" (fishing cabin), Marsilly.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30059] A fishing huts straddles the Atlantic coast near the village of Marsilly, north of La Rochelle. These huts are named 'carrelets' in French and are quite popular along the coast of the Charente-Maritime. During high tide a rectangular net is lowered vertically into the sea from the stilted hut. After remaining a few minutes submerged the net is quickly lifted by means of a winch thus trapping the fish between it and the surface. During a sea kayaking trip along the coast they form an interesting attraction. Photo Paul Smit.
Kayaker at limestone cliff, Nieul-sur-Mer.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30061] During high tide it is possible to reach the pebble beach at the foot of the Atlantic limestone cliffs near the village of Nieul-sur-Mer by sea kayak. During ebb extensive mudflats make this approach impossible. Photo Mick Palarczyk.
Sea kayaker passing under bridge, Le Plomb.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30063] The small port of Le Plomb, on the Atlantic coast just north of La Rochelle, is a nice spot to investigate by sea kayak. The port played a role in the salt trade during the Middle Ages. Nowadays it is mainly used by pleasure boats. Photo Mick Palarczyk.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30065] Marked by a rough life on and near the sea, this man occupies a cottage in Le Plomb, a small port on the Atlantic coast just north of La Rochelle. Photo Mick Palarczyk.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30067] In the early morning a sailing boat motors across the tranquil waters of the Old Harbour (Vieux Port) of La Rochelle. The mouth to the harbour is guarded by two medieval fortified towers, both built in the 14th century. On the left we see the Tour St.-Nicolas, which served as a prison for many centuries. On the other side stands the Tour de la Chaîne (Tower of the Chain) which could be connected with a chain to the Tour St.-Nicolas, thus closing the entrance to the harbour. Photo Mick Palarczyk.
Kayaking in Old Harbour of La Rochelle.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30070] Kayaking in the Old Harbour (Vieux Port) of La Rochelle can be a magical experience, especially during the early morning. The mouth to the harbour is guarded by two medieval fortified towers, both built in the 14th century. On the left we see the Tour St.-Nicolas, which served as a prison for many centuries. On the other side stands the Tour de la Chaîne (Tower of the Chain) which could be connected with a chain to the Tour St.-Nicolas, thus closing the entrance to the harbour. Photo Mick Palarczyk and Paul Smit.
Fishing cabins ("carrelets") near Yves.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30089] Two fishing huts straddle the Atlantic coast near the village of Yves, north of Rochefort. These huts are named 'carrelets' in French and are quite popular along the coast of the Charente-Maritime. During high tide a rectangular net is lowered vertically into the sea from the stilted hut. After remaining a few minutes submerged the net is quickly lifted by means of a winch thus trapping the fish between it and the surface. Photo Mick Palarczyk.
Flowers on Rue Napoléon on Ile d’Aix.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30118] Most streets of the village on Ile d’Aix are dominated by the bright colours of hollyhocks. Parked cars are almost absent as they are prohibited on the island (except for service vehicles.) The white washed houses in this picture can be found in the Rue Napoléon. Bonaparte stayed for a week on the island after his lost battle at Waterloo, hoping to flee to the United States. In the end he was taken from here by the English to the island of Saint Helena, never to see French soil again. Photo Paul Smit.
Kayak at river Sèvre Niortaise.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30049] West of Marans the Sèvre Niortaise is influenced by the tides and paddling downstream is best done during the outgoing tide. During ebb the banks of the river turn into muddy slopes, as here, near the little port of Corps de Garde. The salt meadows bordering the river are a great place for a pause, though. Photo Mick Palarczyk.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30052] Shrimp fisher near Esnandes, on the Atlantic coast south of the mouth of the Sèvre Niortaise. Photo Mick Palarczyk.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30055] Shrimp fisher near Esnandes, on the Atlantic coast south of the mouth of the Sèvre Niortaise. Photo Mick Palarczyk.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30056] A fishing cabin or “carrelet” is accessed from the low Atlantic cliff coast near Marsilly by a stilted walkway. The fishing cabin operates with big dip nets that are lowered into the sea by means of a winch during high tide. Photo Paul Smit.
Kayaker at a "carrelet" (fishing cabin), Marsilly.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30058] A fishing huts straddles the Atlantic coast near the village of Marsilly, north of La Rochelle. These huts are named 'carrelets' in French and are quite popular along the coast of the Charente-Maritime. During high tide a rectangular net is lowered vertically into the sea from the stilted hut. After remaining a few minutes submerged the net is quickly lifted by means of a winch thus trapping the fish between it and the surface. During a sea kayaking trip along the coast they form an interesting attraction. Photo Paul Smit.
Kayaker at a "carrelet" (fishing cabin), Marsilly.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30060] A fishing huts straddles the Atlantic coast near the village of Marsilly, north of La Rochelle. These huts are named 'carrelets' in French and are quite popular along the coast of the Charente-Maritime. During high tide a rectangular net is lowered vertically into the sea from the stilted hut. After remaining a few minutes submerged the net is quickly lifted by means of a winch thus trapping the fish between it and the surface. During a sea kayaking trip along the coast they form an interesting attraction. Photo Paul Smit.
Sea kayaker at Atlantic coast, Nieul-sur-Mer.’
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30062] During high tide it is possible to reach the pebble beach at the foot of the Atlantic limestone cliffs near the village of Nieul-sur-Mer by sea kayak. During ebb extensive mudflats make this approach impossible. Photo Paul Smit.
Sea kayaker passing under bridge, Le Plomb.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30064] The small port of Le Plomb, on the Atlantic coast just north of La Rochelle, is a nice spot to investigate by sea kayak. The port played a role in the salt trade during the Middle Ages. Nowadays it is mainly used by pleasure boats. Photo Mick Palarczyk.
Modern fishing port of La Rochelle.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30066] Chef de Baie, the fishing port of La Rochelle, is enlivened by the bright colours of its sheds. Photo Mick Palarczyk and Paul Smit.
Kayaking in Old Harbour of La Rochelle.
[FRANCE. ATLANTIC 30069] Kayaking in the Old Harbour (Vieux Port) of La Rochelle can be a magical experience, especially during the early morning. The mouth to the harbour is guarded by two medieval fortified towers, both built in the 14th century. On the left we see the Tour St.-Nicolas, which served as a prison for many centuries. On the other side stands the Tour de la Chaîne (Tower of the Chain) which could be connected with a chain to the Tour St.-Nicolas, thus closing the entrance to the harbour. Photo Mick Palarczyk and Paul Smit.