France: Haute Maurienne
Like Valais in Switzerland the Haute Maurienne is an Alpine region between two climates. The weather of northwestern Europe is blocked by the Col de l'Iseran, the second highest pass of the Alps. A southern feeling reaches in from Italy over the much lower Col de Mont Cénis. For centuries Italy's cultural influence seeped in as well, as seen in the high artistic quality of the frescoes in the valley's churches. Even more important is the natural heritage of the Haute Maurienne, since the northern slopes and mountains are part of the Vanoise, a high altitude national park, known for its hiking trails among mountain lakes and glaciers.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10956] Already for centuries Bessans is a centre of religious wood carving. But only from the 19th century on the main subject became the devil. It's because a greedy pastor didn't fulfill his promice to offer the villagers a free meal once a year. So a local woodcutter sculpted a devil and, one night, put it in the window of the pastor. Ofcourse the pastor realized who had played a trick on him and put the devil in the window of the culprit. For a month the wood carving went back and forth, until the artist left it in his own window. By that time Bessans had become known for its devil and the new wood carving orders flowed in. Today this tradition is continued by sculptor Fabrice Personnaz, who has his atelier "Le Chapoteur" in Bessans. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10968] Would you like to enjoy the Haute Maurienne from another perspective? Then try a tandem paragliding flight. Claire and Zébulon, famous for their flight from the Mount Everest, can take you as a passenger, high above Lanslevillard. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10939] From Bonneval-sur-Arc upward the young river Arc has sculpted the granite. A good spot for a refreshing break during a hike. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10994] One of the best ways to enjoy a hike high up in the Vanoise national park, without a long climb to begin with, is by first taking the car from Termignon, in the Haute Maurienne, to the Bellecombe parking. From there it is an easy walk to the Refuge du Plan du Lac, a mountain hut in splendid surroundings, overlooking the glaciers of the Vanoise. There you can have lunch before continuing the hike. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10987] Group of Alpine asters (Aster Alpinus) in the Vanoise national park north of Termignon. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10988] One of the best ways to enjoy a hike high up in the Vanoise national park, without a long climb to begin with, is by first taking the car from Termignon, in the Haute Maurienne, to the Bellecombe parking. From there you can walk to several mountain lakes, situated on the same plateau as the parking and therefore easy hikes. One of them is Lac Blanc, with its superb view over the glaciers of the Vanoise. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10990] One of the best ways to enjoy a hike high up in the Vanoise national park, without a long climb to begin with, is by first taking the car from Termignon, in the Haute Maurienne, to the Bellecombe parking. From there you can walk to several mountain lakes, situated on the same plateau as the parking and therefore easy hikes. One of them is Lac Blanc, with its superb view over the glaciers of the Vanoise. Photo Paul Smit.
Hiking in the Haute Maurienne.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10998] You don't need to go high up in the mountains to enjoy hiking in the Haute Maurienne. Like here on the lower slopes near Sardières, with the Vanoise national park as backdrop. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10984] The most important work of art in the Église Saint Michel in Lanslevilard is the Autel du Rosaire (rosary altar). It was made in 1627 by Jean Clappier, born in Vincendières near Bessans, while he stayed the winter in a chalet at 2300 m altitude ... as punishment for seducing a girl from Lanslevillard. I've rarely seen such a beautiful detention-work! A bas-relief carved out of wood and painted shows a madonna with child, surrounded by a cloud full of putti, handing over rosaries to Saint Francis with Saint Clare of Assisi (at right) and Saint Dominic with Saint Catherine of Siena. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 11002] Christophe Caron (not in the picture) organises winter dog sledding with his huskies in La Norma (Haute Maurienne). To keep the animals fit in summer he has thought of something that children happen to like very much: cani-rando, walking with a husky attached to your belt. After an introduction on how to treat the huskies and getting acquainted with your own dog, the hike takes off, accompanied by Cristophe and one or two parents. It's an easy hike, because the huskies pull you up the slope. There are several pauses and a picknick, moments of cuddling and caressing. At the end the farewell is emotional, because the children have opened up their hearts to the animals. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10999] With its height of 93 m the Monolithe de Sardières is impressive. He stands completely isolated in the woods. A short walk from the village of Sardières takes you to its foot. Climbers succeeded reaching the top for the first time only in 1957 . Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10985] Saint Anthony (the Great) is shown as a monk in the Espace Baroque museum in Lanslebourg. That's because he is often called the father of all monks, because he was the first Christian eremite to attempt living in the Egyptian desert and not on the city outskirts as some ascetics had done before him. This inspired others to a monastic way of life. The bell and the letter T ('tau") are his attributes. In the Alps Saint Anthony is the patron saint of domesticated animals. Since Savoy has always been famous for its cheese and since the Col de Mont Cenis was one of the most important routes to Italy in those days, cattle farmers and the donkey drivers recognized Anthony as their best friend. Therefore nearly every village in the Haute Maurienne has its own St. Anthony chapel. This statue, carved out of wood and painted, is made in 1629 by Jean Clappier. The box is painted by less talented village artists and shows John the Baptist and Matthew. Photo Paul Smit.
Annunciation (fresco in Lanslevillard).
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10970] Not only do the frescoes in the Chapelle Saint Sébastien in Lanslevillard reach an astonishing high artistic level, the colours have kept their original saturation as well. This most important work of art in the Haute Maurienne has been painted at the end of the 15th century by artists from Piemonte (now in Italy but then in the same country: Savoy). Its location may seem unexpected: a small village deep in the Alps. But the chapel is situated right at the start of the pass road over the Col du Mont Cenis, in those days one of the main connections between France and Italy. Touching detail in this fresco of the Annunciation: baby Jesus. He is flying, together with the Holy Spirit, from God to Mary. Photo Paul Smit.
Hiking in the Vanoise national park.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10996] One of the best ways to enjoy a hike high up in the Vanoise national park, without a long climb to begin with, is by first taking the car from Termignon, in the Haute Maurienne, to the Bellecombe parking. From there it is an easy walk to the Refuge du Plan du Lac, a mountain hut in splendid surroundings, overlooking the glaciers of the Vanoise, where this photo is taken. Many people start a dayhike here. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10995] Mother and child enjoying a fountain at the Refuge du Plan du Lac, a mountain hut in the Vanoise national park, north of Termignon. Photo Paul Smit.
Enjoying the Vanoise national park.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10997] One of the best ways to enjoy a hike high up in the Vanoise national park, without a long climb to begin with, is by first taking the car from Termignon, in the Haute Maurienne, to the Bellecombe parking. From there it is an easy walk to the Refuge du Plan du Lac. This mountain hut, overlooking the glaciers of the Vanoise, is a good starting point for day hikes or small walks. Photo Paul Smit.
Lac Bellecombe and glaciers of the Vanoise.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10993] A group of hikers is enjoying Lac Bellecombe, in the Vanoise national park, with its great view over the glaciers of the Vanoise. Photo Paul Smit.
Lac Blanc and glaciers of the Vanoise.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10991] One of the best ways to enjoy a hike high up in the Vanoise national park, without a long climb to begin with, is by first taking the car from Termignon, in the Haute Maurienne, to the Bellecombe parking. From there you can walk to several mountain lakes, situated on the same plateau as the parking and therefore easy hikes. One of them is Lac Blanc, with its superb view over the glaciers of the Vanoise. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10989] One of the best ways to enjoy a hike high up in the Vanoise national park, without a long climb to begin with, is by first taking the car from Termignon, in the Haute Maurienne, to the Bellecombe parking. From there you can walk to several mountain lakes, situated on the same plateau as the parking and therefore easy hikes. One of them is Lac Blanc, with its superb view over the glaciers of the Vanoise. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10992] One of the best ways to enjoy a hike high up in the Vanoise national park, without a long climb to begin with, is by first taking the car from Termignon, in the Haute Maurienne, to the Bellecombe parking. From there you can walk to several mountain lakes, situated on the same plateau as the parking and therefore easy hikes. One of them is Lac Blanc, which has great views over the mountains and glaciers of the Vanoise. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10983] The most important work of art in the Église Saint Michel in Lanslevilard is the Autel du Rosaire (rosary altar). It was made in 1627 by Jean Clappier, born in Vincendières near Bessans, while he stayed the winter in a chalet at 2300 m altitude ... as punishment for seducing a girl from Lanslevillard. I've rarely seen such a beautiful detention-work! A bas-relief carved out of wood and painted shows a madonna with child, surrounded by a cloud full of putti, handing over rosaries to Saint Francis with Saint Clare of Assisi (at right) and Saint Dominic with Saint Catherine of Siena. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 11003] Christophe Caron (not in the picture) organises winter dog sledding with his huskies in La Norma (Haute Maurienne). To keep the animals fit in summer he has thought of something that children happen to like very much: cani-rando, walking with a husky attached to your belt. After an introduction on how to treat the huskies and getting acquainted with your own dog, the hike takes off, accompanied by Cristophe and one or two parents. It's an easy hike, because the huskies pull you up the slope. There are several pauses and a picknick, moments of cuddling and caressing. At the end the farewell is emotional, because the children have opened up their hearts to the animals. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 11001] Christophe Caron (not in the picture) organises winter dog sledding with his huskies in La Norma (Haute Maurienne). To keep the animals fit in summer he has thought of something that children happen to like very much: cani-rando, walking with a husky attached to your belt. After an introduction on how to treat the huskies and getting acquainted with your own dog, the hike takes off, accompanied by Cristophe and one or two parents. It's an easy hike, because the huskies pull you up the slope. There are several pauses and a picknick, moments of cuddling and caressing. At the end the farewell is emotional, because the children have opened up their hearts to the animals. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 11000] Mountainbikers ride past the ruins of the 11th century church Saint Pierre-d'Extravache near Bramans, the oldest church in Savoie. It looks out over the Vanoise national park to the north, with the Dent Parachée (3687 m) at right. Photo Paul Smit.
[FRANCE.ALPSNORTH 10986] Saint Anthony (the Great) is shown as a monk in the Espace Baroque museum in Lanslebourg. That's because he is often called the father of all monks, because he was the first Christian eremite to attempt living in the Egyptian desert and not on the city outskirts as some ascetics had done before him. This inspired others to a monastic way of life. The bell and the letter T ('tau") are his attributes. In the Alps Saint Anthony is the patron saint of domesticated animals. Since Savoy has always been famous for its cheese and since the Col de Mont Cenis was one of the most important routes to Italy in those days, cattle farmers and the donkey drivers recognized Anthony as their best friend. Therefore nearly every village in the Haute Maurienne has its own St. Anthony chapel. This statue, carved out of wood and painted, is made in 1629 by Jean Clappier. Photo Paul Smit.
